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When our friends Jimmy and Anu invited us to tag along on their wedding planning trip to Spain, we were all – sure, why not? But with only about a month to plan, we had to put our itinerary together quickly.
I didn’t realize that this could be problematic for visiting extremely popular destinations like Granada’s Alhambra. When I went to the official website to purchase tickets, it was already all sold out for September! After a minor heart attack and some research, I figured out a way around it – but then lo and behold – I had trouble buying tickets to the Alcázar of Seville too! My credit card was repeatedly declined by the official website with a little note saying it didn’t have the requisite security features to be accepted. (Gee, thanks American financial companies for lagging a decade+ behind the security of European ones . . .)
Happily, we did eventually make it to both historic palaces – but here’s everything I learned about buying tickets, some advice for making the most of your visits, and a little history, etymology, and local food recommendations too. Enjoy!
About The Alcázar of Seville
The oldest European royal palace still in use, the Alcázar of Seville was built in the 14th century by Kind Pedro I of Castile on the site of an 8th century Muslim fortress. Kind Pedro was a big fan of Islamic culture and architecture. He had Arab and Berber artisans build his palace in blend of classic Moorish and Gothic styles. Since then, the palace has been added to many times over.
The word alcázar derives from the Arabic word al-qasr which in turn derives from the latin castrum meaning castle.
The Alcázar was declared a world heritage site by UNESCO in 1987. The Spanish royal family still has use of the upper floors, and in 1995, Juan Carlos I used the palace for the wedding reception of his eldest daughter, Elena.
At the heart of the palace is the stunning Patio de las Doncellas (Patio of the Maidens) with colorful tiling and delicate plasterwork reminiscent of lace. In the center of the courtyard, a sunken pool and garden were uncovered in 2004 from underneath a 16th-century marble covering.
Planning your visit
A general ticket with audio guide is only 18.5 € and can be purchased from the official website here, however as I mentioned, we had trouble using our American credit cards to complete the purchase online. Luckily we had no problem purchasing tickets on-site the same day of our visit. We actually swung by the evening before to see if we could get tickets in advance (we couldn’t) but we did see how short the line was around 5pm. That inspired us to time our visit for the end of the day (in the summer, the palace is open until 7pm). It ended up being a terrific decision – the Alcázar wasn’t crowded at all, and I was even able to get some clean shots in the Patio of the Maidens! I definitely recommend timing your visit for as late in the day as possible.
Where to eat during your stay in Seville:
La Brunilda Tapas – Highly rated on several travel blogs, we ended up eating here twice because it was so close to our Airbnb. The food was very good and inexpensive, although the modern interpretations of tapas resembled dishes you might find at a trendy U.S. restaurant.
Las Teresas – Located in Seville’s old Jewish quarter, this felt like the most authentic of the restaurants we tried. With legs of ham hanging from the ceiling and glasses of iced gazpacho slammed down on tiny, dark wood tables, this is an ideal spot to feel like you’re really experiencing Seville (plus everything was delicious).
Bar Casa Tomate – The only reason we stopped at this unfortunately named restaurant was because Reed saw them serving frosted pint glasses, but we were ultimately delighted by the food. We ordered potatoes in aioli, salmorejo with ham and hard-boiled egg, and a slow-cooked oxtail thinking we were getting little tapas plates – boy were we wrong! The enormous portions were only outdone by the quality and flavor of the dishes, from the smooth salmorejo to rich, olive oil-y potatoes, to the enormous, tender oxtail. Don’t let the name – reminiscent of American chains – throw you off!
About Alhambra
The name Alhambra derives from the Arabic al-hamra, meaning “the red one,” for the fortress’ red stone. The “Al-” in Alhambra means “the” in Arabic. Though it’s often ignored in English, you can smugly correct people that saying The Alhambra is actually redundant.
This palace complex feels as cobbled together as the Weasley’s house in Harry Potter, spanning centuries of history and architectural styles. Set up on a hill northwest of the Sierra Nevada, it largely dates to the 14th century, when Granada’s Nasrid rulers built the stunning Nasrid Palaces at the heart of Alhambra – some of the most beautiful Islamic buildings in all of Europe. In 1492, Catholic King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella defeated the Nasrid dynasty and annexed Granada. In the 16th century, their grandson Emperor Charles V added his own touch with an enormous Renaissance palace.
Other significant parts of Alhambra include the Alcazaba, a 13th century fortress, and the Generalife gardens used as a daytime summer leisure destination by the Moorish rulers.
Planning your visit
A general ticket purchased from the official website is only 14 €, but it’s recommended that you buy these about three months in advance, as I learned when I tried to buy September tickets in July and saw they were all sold out! I didn’t realize that Alhambra attracts about three million visitors per year – 6,000 every day – and is one of the most visited tourist attractions in the world. Luckily, there are many tours – like the one we ended up booking through Viator – that still had spots available albeit at much higher prices.
If you’re booking your Alhambra tickets directly, there are two quirks to be aware of:
- The Nasrid Palaces are the most popular part of Alhambra, and entry is restricted to 300 people every 30 minutes. Because of this, you’re given a specific entry time to the Nasrid Palaces on your ticket. This is very strict, so be sure you budget enough time not only to get to Alhambra, but to find your way through the compound to the Nasrid Palaces entrance (at least 15 mins to be safe). The good news is, once you’re inside you can stay as long as you like.
- Other sections like the Alcazaba and Generalife are single-entry, so unfortunately you can’t double back later in the day.
You can also do a night visit to the Nasrid Palaces, and get a separate ticket to the Gardens, Generalife, and Alcazaba.
The three-hour tour we booked was terrific but exhausting, and skipped over some things we would have liked to explore like the inside of Charles V’s palace, the top of the Alcazaba tower, and much of the inside of the Generalife. If I could do it all over again, I would split the visit into two days to maximize time (and energy levels), and to not feel rushed.
Whether you buy direct official tickets or go through a tour group, I recommend doing the odds and ends of Alhambra (like the Charles V Palace) and the Nasrid Palaces on the morning of Day 1. Our tour guide assured us that the Nasrid Palaces are never not super-crowded (unlike the Alcázar) so there may not be any benefit in going later in the day.
Spend the rest of Day 1 relaxing around the quaint Albaicín neighborhood at the foot of Alhambra (this is where our Airbnb was). Then on Day 2, tackle the Alcazaba and Generalife. This will make for a much more leisurely and enjoyable visit.
Where to eat during your stay in Granada:
While at Alhambra – Skip the vending machines and tiny convenience stores and make a beeline to the wooden cafe stall in the middle of the main courtyard. Though unassuming, it has solid traditional Spanish sandwiches (dry – no condiments – but with quality fillings) and several types of beer on draft. Grab a bocadillo with chorizo or jamón and a caña (glass of beer), and take it over to the stone wall to enjoy a tasty, cheap lunch and a view of Granada from up high.
Bar Los Diamantes – Another restaurant I found through travel blogs online, this one was such a winner we ate there three times! They specialize in fried seafood but this isn’t your greasy American fare – the extremely light, crisp cornmeal batter is flash-fried in oil that’s changed twice-daily to ensure freshness. The melt-in-your-mouth bites of baby octopus, fish, and calamari are exquisite, as are the tomatoes slathered in olive oil and Maldon sea salt. Sit down and order drinks, then wait to be surprised by whatever free tapas they feel like serving with each round. (If you’re really hungry there is a menu to order from). Not listed – the pimientos de Padrón which we enviously saw being served to multiple other parties. I finally asked the waiter for some off-menu (pictured below) and they were delicious.
Pastelerías Casa Isla – Ok, I’m clearly guilty of latching onto spots I like… I discovered this polished bakery on our first night when I was looking for a sweet treat. Though the shop’s name is a little confusing (their logo spells it “Ysla”), you won’t be disappointed by their specialty, piononos – little syrup-soaked sponge cake rolls with cinnamon and crème brûlée on top. Pick up one or two for dessert, and get a cream-filled croissant for breakfast the next day while you’re at it.
I hope these tips are helpful as you plan your visits to two of Spain’s most beautiful palaces. Have a question or a tip to share? Let me know in the comments!
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Hi, Thanks for the wonderfully detailed post. I am planning to visit Spain in two weeks and I have three days in Seville. I am planning a day trip to visit the Alhambra.
I am planning to visit the Alcazar while in Seville and I wanted to know if having seen the Alcazar in Seville, is a day trip to Alhambra worth it in your opinion? Thanks in advance!!
I’m responding late, but this is a great question! Between the two, I enjoyed the Alcazar in Seville more. Alhambra is so culturally and historically significant, I definitely recommend trying to see it – but if it means a rushed day trip, I think it would be more worthwhile to spend the extra day in Seville soaking it all in.