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Chiang Mai, Thailand.
Though Thailand’s photogenic beaches get a lot of attention, it would be a mistake to make them your only destination. Northern Thailand was its own kingdom, Lannathai, for hundreds of years from the 13th to 18th centuries. The area features stunning ruins, nature, handicrafts, and history. On your journey north, it’s relatively easy to stop at a few key places. Kanchanaburi and Ayutthaya, described below, are only a couple hours’ drive outside Bangkok. Sukhothai is four hours south of Chiang Mai, which puts it out of the way if you’re flying. If, however, you make the (crazy) decision to endure the 9-10 hour drive from Bangkok– which I’ve done far too many times with my family – it makes for a perfect overnight stop.
If you missed my introduction to this four-part blog series, you can read it here.
Day 4-6: The Modern History
If you have a little extra time during your trip, I highly recommend spending a couple days in Kanchanaburi, to the northwest of Bangkok towards the Burmese border. My school took us all on a class trip here that I’ve never forgotten, and I’ve been back several times with family and friends. Kanchanaburi is great for outdoor activities and is steeped in World War II history, as it was a base of operations for Japanese troops building a railroad into Burma to access crude oil resources.
Kayaking with friends in Kanchanaburi, 2006.
Start your visit with the JEATH World War II museum, which honors the prisoners of war who worked on the railroad and the bridge over the River Kwai. Have lunch at one of the restaurants by the bridge, then spend your afternoon hiking or kayaking. By night, visit one of the many hot springs in the area. If you’re feeling really adventurous, stay on one of the floating hotels that are anchored on bamboo rafts out in the river.
The Erawan National Park is just north of Kanchanaburi, and is an amazing place to go camping and hiking. The waterfalls are simply stunning. While visiting the national park will take a few days out of your itinerary, it’s a must-do if you know you won’t make it up as far as Chiang Mai.
Day 7-8: The Ruins
There are two sets of ruins that you can easily incorporate into your trip – either Ayutthaya, just north of Bangkok, or Sukhothai, on your way into Chiang Mai if you’re driving or taking a bus up north. Both were ancient capitals – Sukhothai was the first, dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries, and Ayutthaya was the second, established in the 14th century and sacked by the Burmese in the 18th. Both have beautiful architectural ruins, and are worth a day of exploration.
With family in Sukhothai, 2015.
Day 9-11: The Mountains
Chiang Mai is not to be missed. It’s a short one-hour flight from Bangkok or U-Tapao regional airport outside of Pattaya, or you can suffer through the 10-hour bus or car ride. Once you arrive, spend an afternoon up in mountain mists sipping locally-grown coffee, go hiking, or visit the temple at the top of Doi Suthep.
Nagas, seven-headed snakes from Buddhist mythology, line the stairs leading up to Doi Suthep’s summit.
Left: The temple on Doi Suthep. Right: A jackfruit tree outside the temple.
The shopping is excellent in Chiang Mai, as you can find handicrafts that are unique to the north. Pop into the many silver shops along Wua Lai road (this is where I found the Karen tribe earrings I wrote about last year), or select silks and textiles along Sankampang. In the evening, stroll through the night markets in the city for the hustle and bustle, but save your money – the quality of the souvenirs here tends to be low.
Left: There are lots of opportunities to buy local mountain-grown coffee – it’s delicious. Right: A traditional silk workshop in Chiang Mai.
The Veranda High Resort is southwest of Chiang Mai. We stopped by to enjoy their pool and stunning view.
You can either stay downtown at one of many hotels at various price points, or go up into the mountains for a more peaceful experience. My Dad has a little cabin up in Mae Kampong, so I can vouch for that area’s charm. There are lots of little home-stays and boutique resorts in the surrounding mountains.
Left: Our cabin and the old powder blue Mercedes my Dad keeps up north. Right: The view behind our cabin (and someone else’s much bigger house).
With a neighbor, 2017.
Hands down the coolest place I’ve ever stayed in Chiang Mai city is the Dhara Dhevi. It’s pricey – but if it’s in your budget, book it. The Lannathai architecture is gorgeous, the spa and pool are heavenly, and spread across 60 acres, the grounds are eminently explorable via the guest bikes dotted along the property.
Left: The hotel’s palatial main building is behind us in 2010. Right: An instructive traditional silk workshop on the Dhara Dhevi property.
The Wildlife
One of the big draws to the north for western tourists seems to be the opportunity to spend time with elephants. While I haven’t personally experienced this, I hear it’s a lot of fun – though I do caution you to make sure you’re spending your money with an ethical and sustainable operation. My aunt and cousin spent a day at the Elephant Jungle Sanctuary just north of Chiang Mai a few years ago and they loved it. The organization is a joint initiative between Chiang Mai locals and the Karen hill tribes, and all profits go toward rescuing and taking care of elephants, and infrastructure.
Elephant Jungle Sanctuary, 2015.
Another hidden gem is the Siam Insect Zoo, which is largely staffed by entomology graduate students from Chiang Mai University. They let you touch and interact with many of the insects and are extremely knowledgeable. My cousin the bug nerd was supremely impressed.
Holding a giant stick insect at the Siam Insect Zoo, 2015.
If you have time to go further north, I recommend skipping Chiang Rai and staying right up in the Golden Triangle, where the borders of Thailand, Laos, and Burma meet. Or go straight into the northernmost mountains – the wooden Angkang Nature Resort on Doi Angkang, west of Chiang Rai near the Burmese border, is absolutely stunning.
A banana tree at dusk, Mae Kampong, 2012.
If you missed my first post on beach destinations check it out here, and stay tuned for my last post in the series, where to go in Bangkok to survive – and enjoy – the city.
Got questions about traveling in Thailand? Ask them in the comments below, email me, or send me an Instagram DM.
