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Ao Prao sunset , Koh Samet, Thailand
I love spending a few days at the beach as soon as I arrive in Thailand – it helps put me in vacation mode and makes me feel truly disconnected from real life. I lay back and listen to the tropical waves tickling the sand, feel the sun knead warmth into my skin, and sip a fresh coconut without any kind of agenda or to-do list. Here’s an overview of a few popular beach options and a guide to Koh Samet, my favorite island to visit because it’s the most convenient. It’s a great option if you have limited time in Thailand and are comfortable skipping the famous, harder-to-get-to islands!
If you missed my introduction to this four-part blog series, you can read it here.
Day 1-3: The Beach
Phuket
Everyone seems to be going to Phuket these days (pronounced poo-ket – anything written as a “ph” is a soft “p,”). I’ve been there, and honestly, I don’t think it’s anything to write home about. You will have to take an airplane down to the popular island, or take the time for a 11+ hour car or bus ride. Phuket simply isn’t that beautiful or unique when there are so many other options.
Ao Phang Nga
With all that said, Phang Nga bay on the mainland across from Phuket is totally worth the trip if you’re headed in that direction – that’s where you can find ragged limestone cliffs, sea caves with ancient paintings, and dramatic karsts, like James Bond Island, balanced precariously in the ocean.
Koh Chang
Another island to consider, Koh Chang is in the opposite direction, located down along Thailand’s southeastern border close to Cambodia. Large in size, its name means “Elephant Island.” Koh Chang has a unique, decidedly hippie vibe (think “happy shakes” served at the beachside bar). It’s a ton of fun if you want to go somewhere that feels completely off the beaten path.
However, at the end of the day I think your time is best spent doing one of two things:
- If you have the time and money and are truly a beach lover at heart, go whole-hog and fly to Koh Samui in the Gulf of Thailand or Koh Phi Phi, located east of Phuket, for the classic tropical island experience. I regret to say I’ve never been to either one, but Samui is on my bucket list for 2019!
- If you simply want to get a taste of the beach for a few days, there’s a lovely – but simpler, more affordable, and much more accessible option – Koh Samet.
Crystal clear water on Koh Samet, 2012.
Koh Samet
To get to Koh Samet, take a bus from Bangkok to Ban Phe (about 2.5 hours), and then a 45-minute slow boat or 15-minute speed boat to the island. While small, Koh Samet has everything you could want in a tropical paradise – white sand beaches, tepid turquoise seawater, nightlife, and a resort for any budget.
A speedboat dropping off guests.
What to do on Koh Samet
Once you arrive, you’ll see lots of sandwich-board ads on the beach advertising full or half-day trips diving, snorkeling, fishing, etc. It’s definitely worthwhile, but shop around and don’t be afraid to negotiate if you have a big group.
I’ve been on an all-day, inclusive fishing and snorkeling trip that took my friends and I around the southern tip of the island, and it was heavenly. I saw huge sea urchins that looked like ancient time bombs at the bottom of crystal clear water, swam up to tiny little coves that felt untouched by people, and went sea-kayaking as a soft, misty tropical rain fell, obscuring the horizon all around and making me feel like I was one of the only people left in the world.
Koh Samet is technically a national park, so there are other activities like hiking, motorbiking around the island, etc. available inland – but why would you want to leave sight of the beach? Other than the day trips described above, I recommend simply pulling up a reclining chair and soaking up the sun (but first, apply that sunscreen!).
View from our lounge chairs on Hat Sai Kaew, Koh Samet.
Where to stay
My favorite place to stay on the cheap is in one of the humbler “resorts” along Hat Sai Kaew, the largest stretch of beach on the eastern side of the island. Most properties are either backpacker hostels, or clean but perfectly serviceable little cabins. For more sophisticated accommodations, check out all the properties managed by the Samed Resorts group – including the beautiful Ao Prao Resort, which I’ll discuss more below.
When selecting a budget room, note that you’ll spend a little less if you choose a fan instead of air conditioning – most accommodations have both options available. I’ve stayed at Jep’s Bungalows a couple times, and it’s my favorite on Hat Sai Kaew. It’s close to the end of the beach so there’s a little more privacy (and somewhat fewer tourists). Plus, the beach restaurant is framed by pretty trees that add a touch of character.
Jep’s Bungalows – views to the left and right.
While the rooms aren’t fancy, they’re clean, and air conditioning is available. On weekends, be sure to partake of their big seafood-and-kebab barbecue that’s quite tasty. While they are lacking beach loungers, The Silver Sand Resort next door has them in abundance, and if you sit and order food and drink, you can use them even if you aren’t a guest. (The beach chairs and umbrellas pictured above theirs).
Fire dancers on the beach at night on Hat Sai Kaew.
For a decidedly more upscale experience, my favorite destination is the Ao Prao Resort on the western side of the island. Only accessible by speedboat, the resort shares a beach with only a few other properties – so it feels private, but not isolated.
Ao Prao’s beautiful wooden bungalows dot the hillside that slopes gently up from the beach. There’s a decent restaurant, and two lovely edgeless pools. It’s a wonderful place to retreat away from the world, while knowing you can be back in Bangkok in a jiffy.
Looking down from the cottages that dot the hillside sloping above the beach.
Hanging at one of the two infinity pools at the Ao Prao Resort.
Stay tuned for the next post in this series, on ruins, mountains, and more. And if you have questions about traveling in Thailand, DM me on Instagram!
