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Eight shows and 24 designers in 2.5 days . . . my head is still spinning from all the amazing looks I previewed at New York Fashion Week earlier this month! Held every year in February and September, the week-long event is an opportunity for designers to present their latest collections to buyers, the press, and the public. Here’s a recap of the Autumn/Winter 2019 shows that made an impression (Pony x Harbin!) and the designs I’ll be coveting between now and the fall (Ron Ramos, I’m looking at you..).
Anveglosa
Part of the Fashion Hong Kong showcase hosted by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council, designer Annette Chan’s label Anveglosa specializes in leatherwear with a quiet charm and impeccable tailoring. The models glided by in first all-back ensembles, then hunter green, then all white, in slick leathers, tulle, and matte silks. I was struck by the balanced textures and the fresh, minimal color palette. On my wish list: one green leather trench coat, please.
Heaven Please+
Another Hong Kong designer, the looks from Heaven Please+ were pure drama from the bulky silhouettes to the riot of colors, mixed patterns, and unexpected ruffles. Designers Yi Chan and Lary Cheung orchestrated fantastical layered looks and sculptural hair styles that wouldn’t be out of place in a Wes Anderson film. I would absolutely wear a statement piece from this collection, like the asymmetric satin coat below.
Chiara Boni La Petite Robe
Industry staple Chiara Boni took the audience back in time with gathered peplums, Plateau-style hats, and fabrics that spoke of old-World European opulence. Like Heaven Please+, the show featured plaids in updated color combinations (I smell a trend). Stretch velvets were also heavily featured, as were wallpaper-inspired brocades.
Son Jung Wan
The Son Jung Wan show was pure joy to watch! The edgy, textural looks segued cleverly from neon to pastels to metallics, and from faux fur to sequins to velvet. I was on the edge of my seat the whole show, trying to catch every detail of the rich materials and powerful silhouettes. With Balmain-esque vintage and futuristic nods, Son Jung Wan is absolutely going to be one of my new favorite designers to follow.
Photo Credit: Rodin Banica
C’EST D
Part of the Oxford Fashion Collective, a group that showcases independent designers from all over the world, C’EST D by Doyeon Yoni Yu was fun and fresh and felt more like spring than fall. With diaphanous fabrics, delicate bow details, and sorbet colors, each look was like eating a bite of cotton candy as the models fluttered by. The C’EST D brand is body positive and size inclusive, and demonstrated some delightfully creative ways to accentuate the female silhouette.
Ron Ramos New York
One of my absolute favorites from NYFW, Ron Ramos New York delivered the sleek evening suits I’ve been dreaming of my whole life. The black and jewel-tone ensembles alternated in structured and flowing silhouettes, conveying strength and softness. The models’ styling – loose curls and waves that bounced with every step – echoed the way the clothes hung on the body, while bold lips and felt hats gave the looks a classic film noir vibe. I especially loved these modern structured totes with faux fur trim (now available for pre-order). The entire line will be available for sale on March 4.
Pheren Couture
Several designers styled their looks with mouth covers (a cultural and political statement I presume), but Pheren Couture elevated the trend with lace that arched around the lower half of the face like wings, perfectly accenting her tulle dresses. Described as a cross-cultural ode to the Majapahit Empire, the intricate accessories made me think of the graceful construction of Indonesian shadow puppets.
Quaint Official
Milan-born designer Nina D. Quantas created a perfect balance of modern and classic with Quaint Official’s clean, architectural looks. I was impressed by the impeccable construction and quirky touches, like the cummerbund of gold zippers cinching the cream coat below. The juxtaposition of soft and structured lines was so well done – as every single look came down the runway I thought to myself, “I would wear that…and that…and that..”
PONY x Harbin
A collaboration between Chinese beer brand Harbin and American street style brand PONY, the wildly fun show celebrated fashion, Chinese culture, and the Lunar New Year. The clothing almost felt secondary, as the show began with a rock band and a traditional Chinese opera singer, incorporated a calligrapher who painted down the runway while the models were walking, and ended with traditional and modern dancers and new years’ dragons in an energetic culmination. The “afterparty” included beer tastings and speeches from Harbin executives and the Chinese ambassador to the U.S. It was an outrageous experience!
The stunning Pony x Harbin show.
I left NYFW inspired and energized, especially after seeing so many independent designers showcase their creative work. Which designer(s) are you putting on your radar? Let me know in the comments.
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